Taiwan Pilgrimage Route: A 20-Kilometer Journey from Guandu to Dadaocheng
Traveler —
Photos & Text / Shen Fangzheng, CEO of Hotel Royal Group
Photos & Text / Shen Fangzheng, CEO of Hotel Royal Group
The original plan was to invite colleagues and friends to set out together. Yet considering the resting points along the long walk, the details of supplies, and the historical stories behind each stop, it would not match the spirit of hospitality work, which values precision, unless I had walked it myself. So on an early morning, I set off alone with a backpack, choosing to trace this “Taiwan Pilgrimage Route” with my own steps, shaping a path that blends cultural depth with physical and mental ease.
01.First Stop: Guandu Temple | The Starting Point of Water and Faith
From Exit 1 of Guandu MRT Station, turn right and follow the signs and the old-style lanterns along the way. Guandu was once called “Gando,” a transliteration from the Ketagalan language, which sounds more authentic when pronounced in Taiwanese. After walking about one kilometer, you arrive at the well-known Guandu Temple. This is the earliest Mazu temple in the Taipei Basin, first built in the 51st year of Emperor Kangxi (1712 CE), recording centuries of prayers and wishes. Passing through the ancient Buddha Cave on the right side of the temple leads to Guandu Pier. After worship, continue straight from the front of the temple, then enter the right-hand riverside cycling path along the Keelung River toward the next stop.
02.Second Stop: Fagushan Nongchan Monastery | Stillness in the Water-Moon Dharma Hall
Continuing along the cycling road, mangroves and the Tamsui River stretch out on the right, while the wide Guandu Plain opens on the left, making the walk especially comfortable. After about 1 hour and 15 minutes—around 6.5 kilometers—you arrive at the second stop, Fagushan Nongchan Monastery.
Upon entering, you immediately see the “Water-Moon Dharma Hall,” designed by architect Kris Yao. The structure perfectly embodies Master Sheng Yen’s teaching: “flowers in the sky, moon in the water.” The exposed concrete and large reflecting pool create a calm atmosphere. In the temple bookstore, I purchased handwritten sutra copies of the Heart Sutra and the Amitabha Sutra, then continued toward the next stop.
Upon entering, you immediately see the “Water-Moon Dharma Hall,” designed by architect Kris Yao. The structure perfectly embodies Master Sheng Yen’s teaching: “flowers in the sky, moon in the water.” The exposed concrete and large reflecting pool create a calm atmosphere. In the temple bookstore, I purchased handwritten sutra copies of the Heart Sutra and the Amitabha Sutra, then continued toward the next stop.
03.Third Stop: Shilin Cixian Temple | Old Streets of Bazhilan
Continue along Dadu Road and connect to Chengde Road. The streets are lined with car dealerships and flower vendors. Walking slowly through Taipei reveals details often missed in daily life. At the junction of Chengde and Wenlin North Road, the sight of the Shilin Technology Park construction reflects the city’s transformation. Moving along Wenlin Road, the old Shilin neighborhood gradually appears. From Nongchan Monastery, including breaks, it takes nearly two hours and about 6.3 kilometers to reach this Qing-dynasty-era temple in the heart of the night market.
04.Fourth Stop: Dalongdong Baoan Temple | Cultural Festivity within Framed Views
Leaving Xiaodong Street in Shilin, I continued along Jihe Road back to Chengde Road. Crossing Chengde Bridge, a MRT train passed in the distance with the Grand Hotel Taipei behind it—a cityscape I had never truly noticed despite driving past countless times.
After crossing the bridge, I turned right into Lane 283 of Chengde Road Section 3, passed Dalong Elementary School, and soon arrived at Baoan Temple. This is one of Taipei’s most important temples and a spiritual center for Quanzhou Tong’an immigrants. It was designated a national historic site in 1985. Its origins trace back to 1742 when a spirit was brought from Zishan Ciji Temple in Quanzhou. On this day, the “Baosheng Cultural Festival” was taking place, filling the temple with vibrant activity.
After crossing the bridge, I turned right into Lane 283 of Chengde Road Section 3, passed Dalong Elementary School, and soon arrived at Baoan Temple. This is one of Taipei’s most important temples and a spiritual center for Quanzhou Tong’an immigrants. It was designated a national historic site in 1985. Its origins trace back to 1742 when a spirit was brought from Zishan Ciji Temple in Quanzhou. On this day, the “Baosheng Cultural Festival” was taking place, filling the temple with vibrant activity.
05.Fifth Stop: Xiahai City God Temple, Dadaocheng | Two Centuries of Heritage
Leaving Baoan Temple, I walked along Dalong Street through the night market, continued on Lanzhou Street to its end, turned left onto Chongqing North Road, then right onto Minsheng West Road. As I walked, the familiar Dihua Street appeared—marking the end of this journey.
Xiahai City God Temple, which protects Dadaocheng, was originally enshrined in Bangka Bazhuang in 1821. After the conflict known as the “Ding-Xiaojiao Battle,” it was relocated to Dadaocheng. For more than two centuries, it has been managed by the Chen family, now led by the sixth-generation custodian Ms. Chen Wenwen. This is a rare example in Taiwan of a temple preserved through continuous generational stewardship within a single family.
Xiahai City God Temple, which protects Dadaocheng, was originally enshrined in Bangka Bazhuang in 1821. After the conflict known as the “Ding-Xiaojiao Battle,” it was relocated to Dadaocheng. For more than two centuries, it has been managed by the Chen family, now led by the sixth-generation custodian Ms. Chen Wenwen. This is a rare example in Taiwan of a temple preserved through continuous generational stewardship within a single family.
Between the Lines: The Beauty of Plaque Calligraphy
Walking beneath the eaves of Guandu Temple, Cixian Temple, and Baoan Temple, beyond the faint scent of incense, the most striking details are the ancient plaques hanging above the main halls. The bold calligraphy carved into wood feels like a record of time, embodying both sacred authority and historical memory.
